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Go to the shopGlass artists of all levels choose our Frit Heaven 96 COE frit blends for beautiful, consistent results. And if you havenβt tried our 33 COE Boro frit yet, youβll be impressed by how easy these blends are to use, even if youβre new to this type of glass.
EXPLORE MOREWe make our Frit Heaven blends from premium furnace glass - 96 COE. You may use them freely with the same glass COE such as Reichenbach 96, Gaffer, or Uroboros. There are no limitations whatsoever when pairing the frit with any glass that is also 96 COE.
SHOP NOWStart with a neutral flame, use a white base, then add a layer of clear. Roll in the frit blend to cover the bead and melt completely. Use a press to shape, then move to the kiln for annealing. Applying the clear layer allows light to shine through, creating a multi-dimensional appearance in the bead areas with a thinner frit layer.
Safety glasses are always a plus in your glassworking studio, helping to shield your eyes from exploding glass and allow variations in the flame to be seen more easily. Make sure you ventilate your work area and if necessary, use a safety mask to avoid inhaling any dust or glass particles.
We use Glass Alchemy Borosilicate to make our Frit Heaven boro blends. We love their glass, the wide range of colors in their palette and their ongoing innovation of their product manufacturing process. Youβll notice the difference when working with it!
SHOP NOWUse only boro 33 COE glass with the boro blends for compatibility. The boro blends may not be used with our 96 frit blends.
We made all of the sample beads on a Lynx torch with a 15 LPM oxygen concentrator and a brick kiln with a digital controller for annealing. This set up or its equivalent is fine for beads and pendants. If you intend to make larger sculptural art, you'll need a more powerful torch/oxygen set up. We do not recommend a Hot Head torch for use with boro glass.
Start with a neutral flame to maintain consistency and vibrancy in your work, wind a base layer of 33 clear, then roll in boro frit until saturated, then encase in 33 clear. Encasing is optional but recommended.
Keep your kiln at 1050 degrees until the last bead goes in and hold for one hour.
Depending on the brand of clear or color that you use, youβll have a lot of control of your color outcome at
the annealing range of 1035Β°F to 1065Β°F. If you take the glass to a white heat/very liquid state, the
crystals will melt and the glass will unstrike. Glass Alchemy recommends flame striking for silver colors
and kiln striking for ruby colors.
Kiln striking for ruby colors rather than flame striking is to ensure even heating at the proper
temperatures. This prevents your reds from turning βliveryβ brown red instead of the vibrant red you want..
Reds should look clear or very slightly pink when they go in the kiln. If youβre using colors that need to kiln
strike, ramp kiln to 1125ΒΊ F for 20 minutes.
Then ramp down at 200 degrees/hour. Please note: This annealing schedule is a guide. Your own kiln,
glass type or the size of glass being worked may require different calculations.
Always use special eyewear designed for borosilicate glassworking. Our favorite: Phillips Green ACE 3.0
Lens Glasses. They provide all the same protection as the regular soft glass ACE lens, but with the
added brightness reduction of a shade 3 welder's tint for boro flameworking.
Proper ventilation is critical in your flameworking studio - especially with boro glass! Avoid any food or
beverages in your studio to avoid ingesting the colorants in the glass. You may also choose to use a
safety mask to prevent the inhalation of dust particles.